And if the appliance in the first receptacle shorted out or failed in some other way, it would interrupt the current to the other outlets in the circuit. If wall receptacle circuits operated like that, you wouldn't be able to plug an appliance in down stream from another appliance in the same circuit because the voltage wouldn't be sufficient to run it. A series circuit will drop (use) some voltage at each load until it dwindles to an insufficient level at some point down the line. The load itself conducts current down the line to the subsequent loads in the circuit. In a series circuit, current must pass through a load at each device. But, in fact, all household receptacles are always wired in parallel, and never in series. It's common to describe household wall receptacles that are wired together using the device terminals as wired in series. The red wire is connected to the hot on the bottom half of the receptacle and to the remaining terminal at SW2. Here the white is not used for hot but instead the black wire serves that purpose for SW2. In this updated diagram, 3-wire cable runs between the receptacle and SW2 to allow for splicing the neutral source through to the second switch box. It doesn't matter which one, only one connection is needed.Īt the receptacle, the black wire running to SW2 is connected to the bottom hot terminal and at the other end to the remaining terminal on SW2. The source neutral is spliced to the white wire running to one neutral terminal on the receptacle. The second terminal on SW1 is connected to the red wire running to the hot terminal on the top half of the split receptacle. The white wire is mark black on both ends to identify it as hot. At that box, the black wire is spliced with the white wire running to one terminal on SW2. The source hot wire is spliced with a pigtail to one terminal on SW1 and to the black wire running to the receptacle box. The source is at SW1 and 3-wire cable runs from there to the outlet, 2-wire cable runs from the outlet to SW2. Here again the connecting tab between the receptacle terminals is broken off and the neutral tab remains intact. With this arrangement, two lamps can be plugged into the same outlet and each can be controlled separately from two different locations. In this circuit a split receptacle is controlled by two separate switches. If you are running a new circuit, check the electrical code to understand this and any other updates to the required procedure. This represents a change in the NEC code that requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes. The white neutral from the source is spliced in the receptacle box and run through to the box at SW1 where it is capped using a wire nut. In this updated diagram 3-wire cable runs between the receptacle and SW1 and the red cable wire is used to carry the hot source to one of the terminals. The black cable wire runs to the SW1 connecting it to the hot on the top half of the split outlet. The white wire is marked black on both ends to identify it as hot. The hot source is spliced to a pigtail that connect to the bottom, always-hot half on the receptacle and to the white cable wire running to SW1. The circuit neutral wire is connected to one of the neutral terminals on the outlet, it doesn't run to the switch. Here the source is at the outlet and 2-wire cable runs from there to SW1. The tab between the neutral, silver terminals should remain intact. The receptacle is split by breaking the connecting tab between the two, brass colored terminals. This diagram illustrates the wiring for a split receptacle with the top half controlled by SW1 and the bottom half always hot.
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